Star anise pods and anise seeds beside essential oil bottle

Anise Seed Skin Health Research Leans on One Compound Nobody Has Tested

By June Mackerel · Edited by Colette Ward

Listen · June Mackerel reads this piece · 1:48

Anise seed skin health research has arrived in the supplement conversation, carried largely by one compound with a liquorice smell and a decent résumé in laboratory glassware. The compound is anethole, the active constituent responsible for roughly eighty to ninety percent of anise essential oil's composition, and it has demonstrated an ability to interfere with tyrosinase, the enzyme that oxidises tyrosine into melanin. This is the sort of biochemical behaviour that tends to generate interest among people formulating natural skin supplements, particularly those targeting pigmentation.

The difficulty is that the research examining anethole skin support in actual human beings is notably thin on the ground.

By which I mean absent.

What the Safety Trials for Livestock Feed Tell Us About Anise Seed Skin Health

The European Food Safety Authority published two lengthy assessments in 2023, one on bitter fennel oil and one on star anise oil, both of which contain anethole as their primary constituent. The trials were designed to establish safe levels of these oils in animal feed, covering species from laying hens to ornamental fish. Bitter fennel oil, with anethole content up to six point one percent, was deemed of low concern at proposed use levels in complete feed ranging from zero point six milligrams per kilogram for laying hens to twenty-five milligrams per kilogram for pigs destined for fattening.

Star anise oil, with comparable anethole concentrations, received similar assessments across a nearly identical range of livestock.

One imagines the researchers were quite thorough.

The trials measured toxicity, genotoxicity, and reproductive outcomes in animals consuming the oils over extended periods. They did not measure skin pigmentation, complexion, melanin production, or anything else one might associate with the phrase "does anise seed help skin appearance." They measured whether the feed was poisonous.

It was not, within the tested ranges.

Which is reassuring for livestock and entirely uninformative for anyone purchasing anise seed capsules in the hope of influencing their own melanin.

Anise seed in laboratory petri dish with liquid

The Anti-Tyrosinase Activity Nobody Has Tested Outside a Dish

A 2023 review in Molecules surveyed spice-derived phenolic compounds for potential use in skin cancer prevention and therapy. Anise appeared in a table alongside forty-seven other plants noted for anti-tyrosinase activity, all of which had been tested in vitro. That is to say, in laboratory conditions where the enzyme and the compound meet in controlled concentrations without the complications introduced by digestion, absorption, distribution, metabolism, or excretion.

The review did not cite a single human trial examining whether consuming anise extract produces any measurable change in skin pigmentation, tone, or melanin synthesis.

Not one.

A 2021 review in Nutrients discussed bioactive compounds for skin health, mentioning polyphenols as a broad category with antioxidant effects. Anise did not appear by name. A 2025 review in Frontiers in Pharmacology covered plant essential oils and drug delivery systems for skincare, noting that various oils demonstrated anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and skin-whitening effects in the studies reviewed. Anise essential oil was mentioned once, in a table, as a fragrance component.

The review cited no studies measuring changes in human skin following oral consumption of anise seed or anethole.

What we have, then, is a compound that reliably inhibits tyrosinase when both are placed in proximity under laboratory conditions. One would expect this. Tyrosinase is an enzyme. Anethole is a phenolic compound. Many phenolic compounds inhibit tyrosinase. This does not mean that swallowing an anise seed supplement will alter the behaviour of melanocytes in human skin, any more than observing that vinegar dissolves calcium in a beaker means drinking vinegar will decalcify your bones.

One would think this rather obvious, but here we are.

The Cosmetic Industry Uses It Because It Smells Pleasant

A 2021 review in Molecules examined essential oils as fragrance compounds in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Anise oil appeared in the discussion as a source of natural aroma, valued for its sweet liquorice scent and its ability to mask less appealing odours in formulations containing fatty acids and surfactants. The review noted that linalool, geraniol, limonene, citronellol, and citral are much-appreciated fragrance components, and that consumer demand for natural ingredients has renewed interest in plant-derived aromatics.

It made no claims whatsoever regarding efficacy.

One notes this because the presence of a compound in a cosmetic formulation is not evidence that the compound does anything beyond smell agreeable. The fragrance industry has been adding anise to products for decades, not because it lightens skin, but because it improves the sensory experience of using the product. If there were robust clinical data supporting topical or oral anethole for skin pigmentation, one rather suspects the review would have mentioned them.

They did not mention them.

What This Leaves Us With

We have a plausible mechanism. Anethole inhibits tyrosinase in vitro. Tyrosinase is required for melanin synthesis. Therefore, in theory, sufficient anethole reaching melanocytes in sufficient concentration might reduce melanin production.

This is not an unreasonable chain of logic.

It is also not evidence.

We have safety data from livestock, establishing that the oils are not acutely toxic at the levels tested. This is useful information if one is formulating pig feed. It is less useful if one is attempting to determine an effective human dose for influencing complexion, because the trials were not designed to measure skin outcomes and did not do so.

We have decades of use in cosmetics as a fragrance, which tells us the compound is generally well tolerated when applied topically in small amounts mixed with other ingredients. It does not tell us whether oral supplementation produces any change in skin appearance, because that question has not been studied in humans.

What we do not have is a single published trial in which researchers gave people anise seed, measured their skin before and after, and recorded a difference. Not a small trial. Not a preliminary trial. Not even a bloody case report.

The research on anise seed skin health exists entirely in test tubes and in the feed troughs of livestock.

One might describe this as a rather significant gap.

The supplement is available. The mechanism is discussed. The human data are absent. One is left with a compound that performs predictably in a dish and has no clinical track record whatsoever in the application for which it is currently being sold. It is not unsafe, as far as anyone has measured. It is not proven effective, because nobody has measured that either.

One might reasonably wait for someone to conduct an actual trial before committing to a daily regimen of capsules that smell faintly of liquorice and cost rather more than they ought to.

This article is education and reporting on published research. It is not medical advice, and nothing here is intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease. Talk to your own clinician about your own situation.

Sources

  1. Advances in plant essential oils and drug delivery systems for skincare, Frontiers in pharmacology (2025).
  2. Plant Extracts as Skin Care and Therapeutic Agents, International journal of molecular sciences (2023).
  3. Spice-Derived Phenolic Compounds: Potential for Skin Cancer Prevention and Therapy, Molecules (Basel, Switzerland) (2023).
  4. Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: A Review, Nutrients (2021).
  5. Safety and efficacy of feed additives consisting of essential oils from the fruit and stems of Foeniculum vulgare Mill. ssp. vulgare: Bitter fennel oil for use in all animal species and sweet fennel oil for use in dogs and cats (FEFANA asbl), EFSA journal. European Food Safety Authority (2023).
  6. Safety and efficacy of a feed additive consisting of an essential oil derived from the fruit of Illicium verum Hook.f. (star anise oil) for use in all animal species (FEFANA asbl), EFSA journal. European Food Safety Authority (2023).
  7. Essential Oils as Natural Sources of Fragrance Compounds for Cosmetics and Cosmeceuticals, Molecules (Basel, Switzerland) (2021).

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